Fruit Forward Natural from the Ijen Highlands of East Java

In East Java, Indonesia, the majestic Mount Ijen draws tourists from around the world with its bright, blue acidic crater lake and sulphuric blue fires. The rich volcanic soil and dry tropical climate make the surrounding highlands an ideal area for growing crops. Here, farmers cultivate fruits, vegetables, tobacco, and, of course, coffee.

Coffee trees neatly arranged in rows at a farm behind homes in the Ijen Highlands.

Kevenka Coffee is a green coffee producer based in East Java. Founded by brothers Kenny and Kevin Soewondo, Kevenka focuses on producing specialty coffees to highlight the unique flavor profiles of the region. Many farmers in Ijen are able to process their own coffee, but home-processed coffee varies greatly from farm-to-farm and can significantly affect quality. To better control quality, coffee growers focus on farm management and cherry production, and Kevenka focuses on sorting and processing.

Brothers Kenny and Kevin Soewondo, founders of Kevenka Coffee.

Farmers bring their freshly picked cherries to collectors who assess their quality before buying and transporting them to the Bottolingo wet mill. All cherry deliveries are checked for their sugar content using a BRIX refractometer. This allows Kevenka to determine the best processing method for the cherries. Once cherries pass this assessment, they are sorted by density and color, and then dried for 11-13 days. Afterwards, they are packed and shipped to the Drioyorejo dry mill where they are hulled, sorted, and prepared for export.

For the natural process, coffees are left in the cherry and are placed on drying patios. They are rotated on a regular basis to promote even drying. The cherries turn from bright red to purplish-black when they are close to being dry.

The folks at Kevenka Coffee continue to refine their processes, and we can taste it in the cup. This is our second year showcasing natural coffee from Mount Ijen, and this harvest is more lively than the previous year, exhibiting clarity in its fruit flavors. As a pour-over, we taste strawberry, rambutan, and red dragonfruit. As an espresso, it has a vibrant acidity and reminds us of pomegranate, passionfruit, and hibiscus tea!